Why This Costume: This costume was partly a matter of convenience, partly a matter of wanting to cosplay with Callula, and partly a nudge from everyone and their dog. As I mentioned in my last post, I was out of the country for a week on vacation at the beginning of October, and I knew I wouldn’t have much time to finish up a full build for Fan Days. I loved the Deadpool movie, but wasn’t really sure who to cosplay. I think at least half a dozen people suggested I make Angel Dust before it actually clicked in my head that I look like Gina Carano’s character. And as an added bonus: it was pretty simple to make!
How I made it: All in all, this is a pretty simple build. I bought all the pieces and modified the corset, top, and belt to be more film accurate.
The corset was definitely the most time-consuming piece of this costume. This tutorial from Lucy’s Corsetry was a massive help with this project. I compared it to my Wonder Woman overbust corset and marked where I needed to cut. From there, I seam ripped the binding, removed the boning, and cut the corset down to the right shape. Once that was done, I cut the boning down to the new length, re-tipped it, and put the boning back into the appropriate channels. I used the excess fabric to make the straps and I used faux leather scraps from Lulu to make the bias binding, which is also what I used for the diagonal stripes. A lot of reviewers on Amazon complained about the sturdiness of the zipper, so I tore that out and replaced it with a heavy-duty zipper as well. I also swapped out the lacing for black parachute cord. Finally, I stitched some 1″ black webbing I had on hand to the center front of the corset and to the straps.
The only other part of this costume I had to sew was the shirt. I didn’t think to purchase a shirt before my cruise, so I picked up 2 long-sleeve crew neck shirts at Wal-Mart for $5 a piece. I marked where I wanted the neckline to go, cut it off, and made a neck band out of my 2nd shirt. I also cut off the sleeves to 3/4 length and made bands from my second shirt to finish it off.
I styled my wig much in the same manner as my Captain Marvel wig: tease, hair spray, blow dry, and repeat for crazy volume. Though the braids are film-accurate, I think I’ll remove them for future wears as the side burns of the wig don’t come down quite far enough on me.
Thoughts on this costume: This might be one of my comfiest costumes to date! Even though a lot of people had trouble recognizing my costume, lots of people thought it was cool and I had a ton of fun derping around with Callula and trolling Deadpools. Next time, I’ll pay a bit better attention to my shapewear (my silhouette wasn’t quite what I was going for), shorten the straps a touch, and tweak the wig a bit. Otherwise I had a lot of fun with this build!
Over the weekend, I’m planning to fully dive into my corset for Lulu. This will mark my fourth corset, so I thought today’s post would be a good opportunity to share some of my mishaps and learning experiences in the hopes of helping out a few other newbie corset makers.
1.Do your homework: Corset making is not for the faint of heart. While none of the basic steps are particularly difficult, you do need to have a solid understanding of every step required if you want your corset to last longer than one event. Here is a list of a few tutorials and resources I found particularly helpful:
Sidney Eileen has some fantastic tutorials. Many take you through the entire process of making a corset, and several also focus on specific corset tasks, such as installing a waist stay or a busk.
Foundations Revealed is one of the go-to resources for the corset community. Tons and tons of in-depth tutorials!
2. Make a game plan: Just like other garments, there are dozens of ways you can approach a corset. Do you want a single layer corset? Do you want exposed boning channels? Do you not want visible boning channels? Think about what you want your final product to look like, because your process may change as a result.
For example, I knew going into Belle that I didn’t want visible boning channels, which meant that I needed a floating strength layer. All my hardware went into this layer so that the fashion layer could retain the appearance of a bodice. This also meant that I had to construct each layer separately, which impacted the order of construction.
3. Consider your needs: Many corset makers will tell you that your corset isn’t a “real” corset unless it’s made with coutil and steel boning. Well, that might be useful if you’re planning to waist train and wear your corset on a regular basis, but many cosplayers only wear their corsets for a few hours at a time. And let’s also not forget costuming budgets. Thirty-plus dollars a yard for coutil fabric is way more than I normally spend for costumes!
Plastic boning is a perfectly viable alternative to steel boning if you don’t intend to do tight lacing, and German plastic boning is one of my favorite types of boning to use. That said, most of the boning from your big box craft stores is built more for bodices and strapless gowns and is very prone to warping after a few wears. If German plastic boning doesn’t work for your project, consider using zip ties from the hardware store as an alternative.
As for fabric, I like cotton duck or a very tightly woven twill for my strength layer. I can get either through my local craft store, and it’s about $10 a yard full price versus $30+ for standard coutil.
A note about fabric: In corsetry, your fabric is what does the work of cinching in your waist, so it’s vital to use a strength layer. The boning is there to keep the fabric from wrinkling. You can have a strength layer separate from your fashion layer, or you can fuse your strength and fashion layers together (as I did with my recent Wonder Woman) using fusible web or flat lining them.
4. Pick the right pattern: Big 4 patterns are notorious for building excess ease into their patterns for corsets, making them more appropriate for bodices. A corset is one of those garments that should have negative ease, meaning that it should be smaller than your body’s natural measurements. It’s certainly possible to make big 4 patterns work, but you’ll need to pay attention to the finished measurements on the back of the pattern envelope and absolutely make a mock-up. Many corset makers recommend going down at least 2 sizes if you use a big 4 pattern.
My personal recommendation would be to go with a company known for producing corset patterns even though they’re a little pricier. Truly Victorian and Laughing Moon have some great basic patterns, and TV110 is by far my favorite 12 panel corset. I’ve used it for 2 of my costumes so far as well as Callula Cosplay’s Codex, and it’s been a champ.
5. Mark your shit: You know those lovely marks on sewing patterns that are supposed to line up? Well, they’re super vital with corsets. Being off even as much as a quarter of an inch can throw off your final product. Make sure to mark and use those notches! Marking your seam allowances for your first couple of corsets can also be really useful.
6. Pay attention to grain lines: You know the saying “Measure twice, cut once?”. With corsetry, it’s more like, “Measure thrice, cut once.” Grain lines are hugely important to corsets. Why? Well, let’s have a brief discussion about fabric grain.
Woven (non-stretchy) fabrics are comprised of a grain and a cross grain that run vertically and horizontally on your fabric. These are typically the least stretchy parts of your fabric. The part of your fabric that runs diagonally to the grain and cross grain is the bias, and it’s the stretchiest part of your fabric. You know those packs of bias tape you can get at the fabric store? They’re made of material cut on this angle. Since corsets are designed to cinch everything in, it’s important to use the part of the fabric that *won’t* stretch, thus keeping the corset’s shape even when under heavy stress. So make sure everything is lined up properly when you cut!
7. Make a mock-up: I get it, making mock-ups isn’t a lot of fun. But if there’s any garment I recommend making a mock-up of, it’s a corset. Corsets are incredibly time consuming, so it’d be heartbreaking to pour 20 hours into a project only to realize it doesn’t fit. You also really need to make sure that it will be comfortable for extended wear and that you aren’t inadvertently flashing more (or less) boob than you mean to.
I normally make my corset mock-ups out of duck cloth, since that’s one less set of pieces I have to worry about cutting when I get to my final fabric. I also cut a 3″ wide rectangle of fabric the same length as my back piece to mimic the lacing in the back. Many corset suppliers also have pre-grommeted strips you can use for mock-ups, but I’m not a fan of lacing myself in and out of a mock-up multiple times for fittings. So far the basic rectangle has worked for me!
In lieu of a busk, I baste in a zipper. Speaking of basting, I also baste all my seams and press them one direction. When fitting, I turn my corset inside out and make all my markings on the wrong side so that it’s easier to see places I need to make adjustments. Taping your boning to the channels is also a useful way to see how your corset will fit!
8. Take your time: Corsets might seem daunting when you first dive into them, but the saying, “If you can sew a straight line, you can sew a corset,” is true. The main thing to keep in mind during construction is to take your time and make sure you’re doing everything properly, and you’ll end up with a beautiful corset!
Where I buy corset supplies:
Corset Making Supplies : Go-to resource. Do double-check on some supplies though. Their coutil in particular is a little higher than some Etsy sellers.
Vogue Fabrics : Expensive shipping, but very fast and prompt customer service.
Farthingales : Great service, but based in Canada. Shipping takes a while.
Various Etsy sellers
I hope that helps some aspiring corset makers. Have you made a corset before? What tips would you share?